Gaziantep: The Turkish City Built on 'Green Gold' – A Culinary Journey

Gaziantep: Where 'Green Gold' Forges a Turkish Culinary Legacy

For centuries, the vibrant city of Gaziantep in Turkey has been inextricably linked with one ingredient: the pistachio. Far more than just a nut, these emerald treasures remain the most revered component in Turkey's culinary capital, serving as the essential secret behind its world-renowned baklava and defining the very essence ofthe Turkish city built on 'green gold'. This valuable crop is not merely an economic driver; it is the single most important ingredient, a cherished symbol, and a deep-seated tradition in Gaziantep.

The Quest for Early Harvest: Crafting Gaziantep's Legendary Sweets

As summer draws to a close, bakers in Gaziantep embark on a unique pilgrimage, venturing from their kitchens into the sun-drenched, cross-hatching pistachio orchards of the nation's southeastern plains. This local treasure, affectionately dubbed "green gold," is typically harvested in September. However, a select portion is meticulously hand-picked nearly a month earlier. At this stage, the nut-like drupes are still small, boasting an exquisite emerald-colored flesh prized for its intense flavor.

"Bakery owners personally visit the trees, sampling the nuts as they go," explains Aylin Öney Tan, editor of the Gaziantep cookbook,A Taste of Sun and Fire. "When the harvest approaches its peak, they often secure an entire orchard's yield on the spot." This early-season pistachio is critical for local delicacies such askatmer(creamy breakfast pastries) and, of course, the baklava widely acknowledged as Turkey's finest. These confections have transformed Gaziantep into a veritable pilgrimage site for dessert aficionados. For locals, these aren't just sweet treats; they represent a fundamental part of life in one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited cities.

More Than Dessert: Pistachios in Gaziantep's Cultural Milestones

In Gaziantep, sweets transcend the realm of mere desserts; they are integral to nearly every significant life event. "Sweets here mark almost all of our milestones," notes Hatice Pekmez, an associate professor at Gaziantep University specializing in gastronomy and culture. From the joyous welcome of a new baby, celebrated with trays of syrupy pistachio baklava, to the solemn comfort offered by mourners dipping spoons into soft semolinahalvafried in aromatic butter, these dishes strengthen community ties. "Sharing these dishes is a way we reinforce our communal bonds," Pekmez emphasizes.

A Taste of Tradition: The Iconic Katmer

Before the first rays of dawn illuminate the city, bakers lovingly tend to oak-fired ovens, revered for their pure, smokeless heat. They rise early to preparekatmer—delicate envelopes of thinly stretched dough folded around a lavish filling of sweet pistachios and clotted cream. By 8:00 AM, at the century-old, family-owned bakery Katmerci Zekeriya Usta, locals gather around small wooden tables, sharing jugs of chilled milk alongside plates ofkatmer, served piping hot and crisp-edged directly from the ovens.

"Newlyweds enjoykatmeras their inaugural breakfast," shares Mehmet Özsimitçi, the bakery's third-generation owner. "The tradition symbolizes a sweet beginning and sweet words in their new life together." Özsimitçi, now 65, began his apprenticeship alongside his father as a child and still starts each day withkatmerprepared by his master bakers. He stresses that replicating Gaziantep's authentickatmerwould be impossible without the region's unique flavors, from the local pistachios to the clarified butter sourced from mountain-grazed herds. "In Gaziantep, we hold our ingredients in very high esteem," he states.

Deep Roots: Gaziantep's Ancient Pistachio Heritage

The rich aroma from Katmerci Zekeriya Usta's ovens wafts through the labyrinthine streets of Gaziantep's old city—a place some researchers believe began as a Neolithic settlement over 10,000 years ago. At the city's small, free-to-visit Pistachio Museum, housed within a distinctive pistachio-shaped building amidst pistachio trees, visitors can delve into the nut's profound history. Archaeological findings at Oylum Höyük, an ancient site 50 km south of Gaziantep, reveal pistachio remains dating back to the 3rd millennium BCE, indicating continuous habitation since 3400 BCE. This rich past underscores the long-standing significance of pistachios inthe Turkish city built on 'green gold'.

Exploring the 'Pistachio Trail'

Today, travelers in Gaziantep can easily spend days exploring an unofficial "pistachio trail." The nuts are stacked in towering pyramids at shops within the city's ancient covered markets, offering both fresh varieties still encased in their blushing, petal-like skins and roasted versions perfect for snacking. Stalls in the Bakırcılar Çarşısı (Coppersmiths' Bazaar) tempt visitors with pistachio-dusted Turkish delight and sweet rolls of pistachio paste, ideal for taking home. Neon signs outside bakeries boldly flash the word "fıstık" (pistachio) in eye-catching lime-green letters.

"Fıstık" is a word worth knowing in Gaziantep. To compliment a friend's attractiveness, one might say "fıstık gibisin"—literally, "you are like a pistachio." Calling someone "fıstığım," or "my pistachio," is a deeply affectionate term. Each September, locals further celebrate their prized crop with the annual GastroAntep Festival, featuring workshops and pop-up dinners. This region continues to produce over 70% of Turkey's pistachio harvest, benefiting from rocky soil that forces trees to develop deep roots and summer heat that bakes the nuts to perfect ripeness. "Gaziantep pistachios are notably sweeter and greener than those cultivated elsewhere," affirms Mustafa Özgüler, executive chef of Gaziantep bakery-restaurant Orkide, whose displays brim with pistachio cookies and baklava.

A hilltop pistachio orchard, dating back decades and recently deeded to the city after the devastating 2023 Turkey-Syria earthquakes, reveals another layer of pistachio culture. "Many people have anabağ evi, a house with pistachio and walnut trees where they spend weekends," explains Emir, Özgüler’s son. "Historically, wealth in Gaziantep was measured by the extent of one's pistachio lands."

Baklava: The Crown Jewel of Gaziantep's Pastry Scene

Amidst the rich tapestry of Gaziantep's pistachio desserts, baklava stands as the undisputed king of its pastry pantheon. Güllüoğlu, a modest shop established in 1871 within the historic Elmacı Bazaar, lays claim to being the country's oldest continuously operating baklava bakery. Its display window gleams with classic square-shaped baklava, turnover-likeşöbiyetbaklava, and slender wedges ofhavuç dilimibaklava, each showcasing a brilliant pistachio filling.

The origins of Gaziantep's unique baklava can be traced to Güllü Çelebi, the founder of Güllüoğlu. During a mid-19th-century pilgrimage to Mecca, he was captivated by the walnut baklava found in the sweet shops of Damascus and Aleppo, then part of the Ottoman Empire. Upon his return, he ingeniously adapted the recipe, substituting walnuts with the abundant local pistachios—a pivotal modification that forever reshaped his city's culinary traditions.

The Masters of Baklava: A Legacy of Craftsmanship

"There is immense pride in baklava production here," states Filiz Hösükoğlu, a gastronomy expert who grew up in the city. "It's akin to the sense of workmanship Michelangelo brought to Florence; it's the same with baklava in Gaziantep." This dedication is a cherished part of family life; Hösükoğlu recalls her father purchasing trays of pistachio baklava to mark the end of Ramadan, sharing it with every guest. Families often hold enduring loyalties to their preferred baklava artisans.

Travelers, unburdened by such allegiances, are free to savor the city's diverse offerings. After sampling a selection at Güllüoğlu, one might journey to Koçak Baklava in a newer district, where a lavish dining room attracts a refined clientele to indulge in meticulously plated confections. An early morning visit to the upstairs workshop of İmam Çağdaş, a bakery-restaurant founded in 1887, reveals the profound artistry involved. Here, white-coated bakers, enveloped in a floury cloud, deftly employ slender wooden batons to roll dough into sheets so translucent one can see through them. They then slide metal trays into stone ovens, heated by the glowing orange coals of morning fires. Syrup bubbles in vast vats, foaming as chefs generously ladle the liquid over baklava, fresh and fragrant from the heat.

Burhan Çağdaş, the bakery's fourth-generation owner, who joined the family business at the age of 12, shares that some of his bakers have dedicated over 50 years to the craft, beginning their training as young as eight or nine. "It takes a minimum of five years to cultivate a truly exceptional baklava master," he explains. Çağdaş, now 63, advises eating each piece of baklava upside down, so the syrupy bottom rests on top, preventing the flaky layers from adhering to the teeth—a simple trick for an optimal experience.

Gaziantep: A City Defined by 'Green Gold'

For Burhan Çağdaş, the family business extends far beyond mere food. It intricately connects him to his city's timeless rituals, from births and marriages to religious celebrations and funerals. "It is a culture, an entire way of life," he reflects. In Gaziantep, life is indeed nourished by "air, water, and baklava," a testament to how deeplythe Turkish city built on 'green gold'is defined by its most precious ingredient. This powerful connection between a city, its people, and its treasured pistachios offers a captivating glimpse into a rich culinary heritage unlike any other.